As a typical stereotype here, one may deem that the absence of melanin from our skin (and resulting whiteness) due to our temperate climate in Europe/N. America is generally correlated with the notion that we are weighed down with banknotes and potentially invaluable assets. There is nothing too out of the ordinary with this concept really. How else did you, the white person, afford your plane ticket, mobile phone, digital camera, laptop? How can you manage to keep yourself fed and clothed when you are volunteering? How come you can travel so extensively without any standard work-related income? Somebody must be paying! Indeed, somebody or some institution is.
Namely, governments who have a long past history and current practice of plundering the resources of Africa (yes, the whole continent of 922 mn. people and 54 Euro-constructed states). Or, in my own case, my own savings from work and generous family/friend donations. So despite the fact that we, Obronis, get annoyed with the fact the majority treat us like we have more than them and could potentially be a route to assist their education and so forth, lets put our hands up and admit that this may well be the case, whether we like to admit it or not.
A quick class analysis of volunteers in the Global South will not turn up legions of the West's underclass, nor the children of the traditional working class. We, white volunteers all, when all is said and done, are extremely secure in relative terms. Of course, there is nothing revelationary about this information. But it seems to me more and more that the recipients of our 'charitable' time and efforts are innately more aware of the almost inescapable differences between our circumstances. Out of this guilt we feel, maybe a feeling of charity arises - problem is, are we really affecting any change that is sustainable or are we just mopping up, providing a smokescreen for nasty folks in suits who are working hard to undo small steps we may be making in the 'right' direction. Yes, the dreaded 'M' word - the multinational!
Think Shell, Anglo Gold Ashanti, Firestone - the list is almost perpetual.
We, the pale folk, seek potential sponsors so that we can carry out good deeds for the needy other. Our governments, or a host of NGO's may grant us the possibility of a career break, a post-high school transition, an escape from the boredom of our lives at home. Our job, as volunteers and workers for these institutions, is to make ourselves jobless – that is, we have to try and facilitate the reintegration of refugees, help ensure HIV/AIDS education is effective, teach numeracy and literacy to those excluded from the mainstream school system.
Making oneself jobless is not a great motivation to achieve one's goals, especially if you are a paid development worker with dependents. But then again, are these goals (for example the UN Millenium Development Goals really achievable by 2015) desirable or even achievable. At the current rate, the answer is a plain and simple 'No'. This has already been widely accepted by the UN and mainstream NGOs.
Dropping one's expectations may reduce the disappointment we will all feel when the Western government's promises of 0.7% of GDP is allocated to Overseas Development Aid budget. Of course, it's not justified that we have to do so. But it has always been this way, and always will until radical changes occur on our own home turf. There is no political will. There is no social demand from the masses for things to change. In other words, do we really give a shit whether things change or not. It's a question I ask myself daily here. For fear of coming across as a cynic, I beg to differ.
But hand on heart, when one sees the neglect of many children both from Dublin to Hebron, Warsaw to Kumasi - the prospect of ever reaching these UN MDG's, which I think are quite moderate anyway, seem a million years away, and not the 6 years which is the desired deadline for poverty and hunger to be abolished, primary education to be universal, gender equity achieved, etc.
It just ain't happening. Some solutions and less complaining will follow next time.
Saturday, December 27, 2008
Christmas at Edwenase Rehabilitation Centre
Thanks to the students, staff and volunteers' collective efforts with the Christmas Card Project, the food and drinks generously donated for this year's Christmas party by various churches and individual benefactors could be supplemented to ensure there was also entertainment and enough chicken, fish, rice, salad, beverages, juice and biscuits for all concerned. So as the students return home to be with their families for the coming two months thanks to all who bought the cards or otherwise supported the project. Rest assured Christmas time was very enjoyable for all concerned.
Nobody needs encouragement to dance at Edwenase. Here, the students are dancing to the tunes of a local DJ who once again donated his time to create an atmosphere of fun for all. A small sum of money was charged to provide 8 hours of entertainment. Drinks and biscuits were donated by the DJ's wife.
Canopies were also provided to protect all from the 33 degrees C of heat
Anita and Dorota enjoying the beats
Our first game of basketball after a long quest for a ball that didn't cost an enormous sum of money. Unfortunately, somebody decided to pump the ball up too much afterwards and it blew up. So it's back to the market next week
Party in the Centre Assembly Hall. The 55 or so students who remained at the Centre for Christmas were joined by about 10 members of staff and volunteers along with their families and friends. Everybody was stuffed after the beautiful food. Thanks to the catering staff for their culinary skills and Madame Rita, Mr. Modesto and Mr. Oduru for all their hard work.
Nobody needs encouragement to dance at Edwenase. Here, the students are dancing to the tunes of a local DJ who once again donated his time to create an atmosphere of fun for all. A small sum of money was charged to provide 8 hours of entertainment. Drinks and biscuits were donated by the DJ's wife.
Canopies were also provided to protect all from the 33 degrees C of heat
Anita and Dorota enjoying the beats
Our first game of basketball after a long quest for a ball that didn't cost an enormous sum of money. Unfortunately, somebody decided to pump the ball up too much afterwards and it blew up. So it's back to the market next week
Party in the Centre Assembly Hall. The 55 or so students who remained at the Centre for Christmas were joined by about 10 members of staff and volunteers along with their families and friends. Everybody was stuffed after the beautiful food. Thanks to the catering staff for their culinary skills and Madame Rita, Mr. Modesto and Mr. Oduru for all their hard work.
Saturday, December 20, 2008
6 things an Obroni should have in Ghana
Some of the following may be obvious, others lifesaving, while others you may deem ridiculous. Judge for yourself if you ever venture to this neck of the woods.
Mosquito repellent and net - Unless you want to suffer from extreme fever, loss of appetite and the feeling that your life is about to end prematurely, then it is worth keeping a good eye on your mosquito net, ensuring there are no wholes nor minor gaps for one of the little terrorists to enter and suck on your sweet blood. The evening anepholes mosquito are particularly nasty so cover up head to toe. If you're taking a break on the beach, do likewise. Many volunteers letting their hair down make this mistake and come back with a parasite in their blood and an empty pocket with all the treatment they require. Some of the medication to combat malaria may cause stomach problems, possibly due to the aspirin content. Get advice from the doctor how to alleviate the problem, Injections against malaria cost a bit more but are a quicker solution. Oral medication can take at least 5 days to effectively work and may suppress your appetite despite the fact that it is essential for you to eat (light soup, non-fried food).
First Aid medical knowledge - Many private clinics just have doctors a few hours a day. Most public hospitals are full to the brim with patients. So remember, prevention is better than cure. Avoid going to clinics and hospitals by using common sense for common sicknesses. Don't take risks with unfiltered or unboiled water - your insides are just not used to it. Drink lots of water as a daily habit. Don't share water you have back-washed into, if possible - you are likely to either catch a bug or pass on one. Eat lots of fresh fruit. Avoid midday sun. Walk in the shade when possible.
If you need hospital care, ask for embassy and local advice. When you get there ask for everything (a bowl to puke in, balm to relieve muscular pains, etc.)as many times as it takes you to get it but be respectful to the probability that others may have been waiting prior to your arrival for attention. Be patient with what may seem casual attitudes from nursing and even senior medical staff. They will usually get the job done, just not in a way you are accustomed to.
Appropriate clothing – Yes all the guides say it. So though your pre-trip advisors and volunteering counsellors. But it sometimes just does not sink in. Nakedness, even if you are a hunk guys, is culturally disrespectful. Ladies, the less revealed the less hassle you will get – seems like a fair bargain. Yes, you may be boiling hot, but just get used to it and keep your pale, hairy chest covered. Trousers below the knee are (i) more attractive (ii) more respectful (iii) more practical if they have pockets. Nice clothes to wear on Sunday are also a good idea. You will be amazed how beautiful Ghanaians look for their religious services. No tracksuits, t-shirts, wellington boots, etc. Even if you are a die hard atheist or an a la carte Christian, it's best that you do not stand out like a sore thumb. Keep your shades, basketball top, Nike Air locked up. Smart and casual is also fine.
A sponge – They cost 1.50 Ghana Cedi for and will help scrub off the layers of dust that gather on you skin each evening. Washing yourself 5 times daily without one will not suffice. Get it, scrub like hell, and avoid being and smelling dirty (you won't see it from your own naked eye as mirrors are a rarity), looking tanned (it's actually dust). You will feel a lot better afterwards.
Small change - Traders often do not have change of 5 or 10 cedi. Therefore the water, ice cream, chocolate fix, newspaper, orange or banana you desperately want may not become yours unless you carry small coins at all times.
The ability to say 'Hssst' - This is how Ghanaians grab each others attention. I don't really know how a trader 40 metres away can distinguish the sound of a 'hssst' from a potential customer while she is walking in the opposite direction, but it is a quintessential part of his or her doing business. It's kind of 'one of those things you have to see and hear to understand'. It may seem rude to you, but it is perfectly acceptable for you to use this mechanism of communication also.
Mosquito repellent and net - Unless you want to suffer from extreme fever, loss of appetite and the feeling that your life is about to end prematurely, then it is worth keeping a good eye on your mosquito net, ensuring there are no wholes nor minor gaps for one of the little terrorists to enter and suck on your sweet blood. The evening anepholes mosquito are particularly nasty so cover up head to toe. If you're taking a break on the beach, do likewise. Many volunteers letting their hair down make this mistake and come back with a parasite in their blood and an empty pocket with all the treatment they require. Some of the medication to combat malaria may cause stomach problems, possibly due to the aspirin content. Get advice from the doctor how to alleviate the problem, Injections against malaria cost a bit more but are a quicker solution. Oral medication can take at least 5 days to effectively work and may suppress your appetite despite the fact that it is essential for you to eat (light soup, non-fried food).
First Aid medical knowledge - Many private clinics just have doctors a few hours a day. Most public hospitals are full to the brim with patients. So remember, prevention is better than cure. Avoid going to clinics and hospitals by using common sense for common sicknesses. Don't take risks with unfiltered or unboiled water - your insides are just not used to it. Drink lots of water as a daily habit. Don't share water you have back-washed into, if possible - you are likely to either catch a bug or pass on one. Eat lots of fresh fruit. Avoid midday sun. Walk in the shade when possible.
If you need hospital care, ask for embassy and local advice. When you get there ask for everything (a bowl to puke in, balm to relieve muscular pains, etc.)as many times as it takes you to get it but be respectful to the probability that others may have been waiting prior to your arrival for attention. Be patient with what may seem casual attitudes from nursing and even senior medical staff. They will usually get the job done, just not in a way you are accustomed to.
Appropriate clothing – Yes all the guides say it. So though your pre-trip advisors and volunteering counsellors. But it sometimes just does not sink in. Nakedness, even if you are a hunk guys, is culturally disrespectful. Ladies, the less revealed the less hassle you will get – seems like a fair bargain. Yes, you may be boiling hot, but just get used to it and keep your pale, hairy chest covered. Trousers below the knee are (i) more attractive (ii) more respectful (iii) more practical if they have pockets. Nice clothes to wear on Sunday are also a good idea. You will be amazed how beautiful Ghanaians look for their religious services. No tracksuits, t-shirts, wellington boots, etc. Even if you are a die hard atheist or an a la carte Christian, it's best that you do not stand out like a sore thumb. Keep your shades, basketball top, Nike Air locked up. Smart and casual is also fine.
A sponge – They cost 1.50 Ghana Cedi for and will help scrub off the layers of dust that gather on you skin each evening. Washing yourself 5 times daily without one will not suffice. Get it, scrub like hell, and avoid being and smelling dirty (you won't see it from your own naked eye as mirrors are a rarity), looking tanned (it's actually dust). You will feel a lot better afterwards.
Small change - Traders often do not have change of 5 or 10 cedi. Therefore the water, ice cream, chocolate fix, newspaper, orange or banana you desperately want may not become yours unless you carry small coins at all times.
The ability to say 'Hssst' - This is how Ghanaians grab each others attention. I don't really know how a trader 40 metres away can distinguish the sound of a 'hssst' from a potential customer while she is walking in the opposite direction, but it is a quintessential part of his or her doing business. It's kind of 'one of those things you have to see and hear to understand'. It may seem rude to you, but it is perfectly acceptable for you to use this mechanism of communication also.
Monday, December 15, 2008
Ghana leads the way with peaceful elections
The results have poured in and Ghana is not much the wiser. With the nominally centre-left National Democratic Congress winning 113 parliamentary seats, the current ruling centre-right regime of New Patriotic Party came a close second with 108 seats. 4 Independents were elected, although they are all former NPP and are expected to support their former colleagues. The People's National Convention received 2 seats while former Independence leader Dr. Kwame Nkrumah's 'rejuvenated' but ultimately 'decimated' pseudo-socialist Convention People's Party just received 1seat.
The separate presidential race was won by NPP's Nana Akufuo-Addo, tipping Professor John Atta Mills of NDC by a slight majority (around 1.5%). The president holds alot of power in Ghana and the fact that parliament may swing to a party different to the president's political base leaves Ghana in unknown territories. But the elections passed peacefully and fairly and all Ghanaians are to be commended for avoiding tribal politics that have marred Kenya and Nigeria recently. Personally, I think little if anything will change for the majority marginalised whether NPP or NDC come to power.
2 constituencies are being disputed, one because members of NDC allegedly tried to run off with 3 ballot boxes! What this all means is that a run-off is required between the two leading parties. A new election will take place on Dec. 28 and New Year 2009 will literally ring in a political party who may transform Ghana into a prosperous nation - that is, if they used the expected oil revenue of US $billions from the western region for the benefit of the public. If you're a gambler, put your money on it being soaked up be a handful of cronies. But maybe I am just being cynical. Hard not to given the experiences of Nigeria, Angola, Equatorial Guinea, Cameroon, Sierra Leone when it comes to natural resources exploited to the detriment of local communities.
Keeping it simple and saying it often is the favourite style of politicking in Kumasi. A massive turnout is expected again (over 60%). But one thing is for sure, education on voting is needed. 2.4% of those who voted used their little finger instead of their thumb. Who knows what awaits Ghana in 2009!
The separate presidential race was won by NPP's Nana Akufuo-Addo, tipping Professor John Atta Mills of NDC by a slight majority (around 1.5%). The president holds alot of power in Ghana and the fact that parliament may swing to a party different to the president's political base leaves Ghana in unknown territories. But the elections passed peacefully and fairly and all Ghanaians are to be commended for avoiding tribal politics that have marred Kenya and Nigeria recently. Personally, I think little if anything will change for the majority marginalised whether NPP or NDC come to power.
2 constituencies are being disputed, one because members of NDC allegedly tried to run off with 3 ballot boxes! What this all means is that a run-off is required between the two leading parties. A new election will take place on Dec. 28 and New Year 2009 will literally ring in a political party who may transform Ghana into a prosperous nation - that is, if they used the expected oil revenue of US $billions from the western region for the benefit of the public. If you're a gambler, put your money on it being soaked up be a handful of cronies. But maybe I am just being cynical. Hard not to given the experiences of Nigeria, Angola, Equatorial Guinea, Cameroon, Sierra Leone when it comes to natural resources exploited to the detriment of local communities.
Keeping it simple and saying it often is the favourite style of politicking in Kumasi. A massive turnout is expected again (over 60%). But one thing is for sure, education on voting is needed. 2.4% of those who voted used their little finger instead of their thumb. Who knows what awaits Ghana in 2009!
Thursday, December 4, 2008
The face of joyful learning
I am on computer number 13 in Patase's internet cafe. Before me, written in black pen on the wooden desk which holds the monitor, is written: "Women are very wicked." Evidently the last customer had some serious angst to project. One can't help but determine religious undertones in many such strong comments from Ghanaians pointing out human flaws. Deviators, fornicators, sinners - the rapture seems to be soon expected in many quarters. End time service banners abound. I hope it is not a premonition for things to come following the Sunday general elections.
Students and teachers who are allowed and have registered to vote are moving out this evening and tomorrow morning to make their way home in order to cast their ballots on Sunday.
This evening I tuned into BBC's radio world service to catch worrying news regarding Jewish settler evictions in Hebron, West Bank, a city I lived and volunteered in with the International Solidarity Movement for about 2 months in the summer of 2007. Reprisals have already begun to occur for my friend Fawaz in Tel Rumeida district. Just 37 minutes ago he reported that his house was under attack from settlers.
So things get somewhat depressing when such news pours in and one is so far away and helpless to show solidairty apart from a message.
On a more positive note, photos of our Centre's students joy at receiving their copybooks below show how enthusiastic and willing they all are to utilise their talents.
Rita, Norah, Naomi and Agnes in the school assembly hall after receiving their notebooks, pens, pencils,erasers, and pencil sharpeners. These were bought from funds raised through our Christmas card project. The students are very motivated to learn numeracy and literacy and have been working hard filling up their copy books practising their skills this week. Thanks to all who bought the cards and supported the project.
Lydia, Lydia, Kwaben and Emilia putting their notebooks to good use in literacy class.
Students and teachers who are allowed and have registered to vote are moving out this evening and tomorrow morning to make their way home in order to cast their ballots on Sunday.
This evening I tuned into BBC's radio world service to catch worrying news regarding Jewish settler evictions in Hebron, West Bank, a city I lived and volunteered in with the International Solidarity Movement for about 2 months in the summer of 2007. Reprisals have already begun to occur for my friend Fawaz in Tel Rumeida district. Just 37 minutes ago he reported that his house was under attack from settlers.
So things get somewhat depressing when such news pours in and one is so far away and helpless to show solidairty apart from a message.
On a more positive note, photos of our Centre's students joy at receiving their copybooks below show how enthusiastic and willing they all are to utilise their talents.
Rita, Norah, Naomi and Agnes in the school assembly hall after receiving their notebooks, pens, pencils,erasers, and pencil sharpeners. These were bought from funds raised through our Christmas card project. The students are very motivated to learn numeracy and literacy and have been working hard filling up their copy books practising their skills this week. Thanks to all who bought the cards and supported the project.
Lydia, Lydia, Kwaben and Emilia putting their notebooks to good use in literacy class.
Monday, December 1, 2008
Fire, Hell and Brimstone: Ghana style
Do you like quizzes?
If yes, then try to guess who said the following:
"The United Nations have not brought peace to any country........... Only Jesus Christ can bring peace to Ghana............ Nevermind what these soldiers and their AK47s can do. God's AK47 can wipe out whole nations: landslides, fire, water"
I don't expect you to know his name. Not even I know that. But you get first prize if you thought a Pentecostal preacher could be one of the few to utter such bizarre words. Attending a ceremony out of interest and invitation recently the sermon kept me alert despite my evening drowsiness. Nothing like a bit of brimstone to put fire in your belly!
Religion plays an interesting role in Ghana. Christian signs are everywhere: on buses, food shops, hair salons. But by far the best I have heard about was the restauraunt called "Let's crap for Jesus". It doesn't get much more ironic than that.
If yes, then try to guess who said the following:
"The United Nations have not brought peace to any country........... Only Jesus Christ can bring peace to Ghana............ Nevermind what these soldiers and their AK47s can do. God's AK47 can wipe out whole nations: landslides, fire, water"
I don't expect you to know his name. Not even I know that. But you get first prize if you thought a Pentecostal preacher could be one of the few to utter such bizarre words. Attending a ceremony out of interest and invitation recently the sermon kept me alert despite my evening drowsiness. Nothing like a bit of brimstone to put fire in your belly!
Religion plays an interesting role in Ghana. Christian signs are everywhere: on buses, food shops, hair salons. But by far the best I have heard about was the restauraunt called "Let's crap for Jesus". It doesn't get much more ironic than that.
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